Mother's Day

A couple of weeks ago it was Mother’s Day, which meant a long weekend for us as the Monday after Mother’s Day is a public holiday. This also coincided with our wedding anniversary, so we decided to treat ourselves to 3 days at Manono Island.  

This time we stayed at Sunset View Fales, rather than with our friends at their fales.  After a pleasant boat trip (no sea sickness) we arrived at our destination to be welcomed to ‘Fawlty Towers’ by Basil.  Basil turned out to be Ewen – a semi-retired kiwi who now spends the New Zealand winters in Samoa and the summers back in New Zealand.  He has spent so long at Sunset View that he is now one of the family and they have even built him his own fale.  Anyway, this particular weekend the proprietor (Leota) was away in Savaii receiving a very special matai title. Because it was such a special occasion his wife (Sau) had gone with him. Apparently this was the first time that both of them had been away at the same time and Ewen had been left in charge. He said he was feeling a bit like Basil Fawlty, surrounded by Samoan ‘Manuels’.  Actually the Manuels were Leota and Sau’s 4 boys and between them they did a pretty good job of looking after us. 

After settling in and enjoying our lunch we decided to take a walk around the island.  This time we weren’t being escorted by our friends’ sons and we were allowed to stop and take photos without being told to hurry up!  By the time we got half way round it was getting really hot so we jumped in for a swim. We got back to our fale just before the heavy rain started, so there was nothing else to do but kick back with a Jack Daniels & Coke, some snacks and a book.  

We were all invited to attend the Mother’s Day church service on Sunday morning. For the keen ones we were also invited to help prepare the umu for Sunday lunch before heading to church.  Much to my surprise Angela was keen to get up at 6.30 and watch the preparation of the umu. We set our alarm and headed down to the ‘kitchen’ at 6.30, but there wasn’t much sign of activity. Apparently the oldest boy had slept in and he is the one in charge of the umu so things were a bit slow getting underway.  Anyway, we watched as one of them peeled the husks off the coconuts. These were later used for the fire.  The coconuts were then spit in half and grated. There was quite a big pile of coconuts to be grated, so after a while I was roped in to finish off grating the rest of them while the boys prepared the fire.  Meanwhile taros and breadfruit were being peeled.  The grated coconut flesh was then squeezed to make the freshest, tastiest coconut milk you will ever get.  Then it was time to make the palusami.  This involves taking some baby taro leaves in the palm of your hand and cupping your hand to form a small dish or well. Some coconut milk (seasoned with salt and diced onion) is spooned into the taro leaves.  Then the taro leaves are carefully folded in to form a ball filled with coconut milk.  The trick is to layer the taro leaves so that the coconut milk doesn’t leak out.  Next step involves wrapping the parcel in a banana leaf and finally it is wrapped in a breadfruit leaf.  The girls were pressed into service making palusami parcels. Some came out better than others, but Ang’s ones looked pretty good.  We boys also had a go, and I was pleased when my effort didn’t leak and passed the inspection of Junior, our teacher.  Once everything was prepared it placed on the hot rocks and covered with leaves and left to cook.  

After breakfast we had time to get dressed up in our Sunday Best then it was off to church.   The Mother’s Day service was a bit longer than the usual service, and of course it was all in Samoan so it was a bit hard to follow.  Most of the other guests from Sunset View came along too, but as the service went on most of them left.  For the few of us that stayed to the end we were rewarded when we were invited to stay and enjoy cookies, cake and ice cream with the congregation. 

After church it was time to head back and check out the results of the umu.  As usual it was pretty good. Of course the palusami tasted even better the normal because we had helped to make it. 

After a big lunch the rain came back, so it was time for that traditional Samoan Sunday activity – an afternoon sleep.   After dinner we were treated to an impromptu fiafia show, put on by the boys. It was a mixture of traditional Samoan dance and even featured a fafafine performance. The show was rounded out with some hip-hop from the youngest of the boys.    

After breakfast on Monday we were taken out to the reef for some snorkelling.  It was pretty good, but not the best we have seen.  Since we have been here we have done quite a lot of snorkelling and I guess we are getting a bit picky now! Still, Angela managed to take a few more photos and it is always nice to be in the water.  

Then it was back to shore and time for lunch before we had to catch the boat back to the mainland.  We had a great weekend and were well looked after by ‘Basil’ and his trusty Samoan ‘Manuels’.