Tuesday, May 12, 2009

Afu Aau Waterfall, the Blowholes and Canopy Walkway

Heading around the southern coast of Savaii we stopped at the Afu Aau Waterfalls which are quite picturesque and feature in the Lonely Planet guide. The falls are made up of a number of smaller falls. We could have dived in for a swim but were't quite ready to don the togs and sit in the car wet so carried on to the Alofaaga blowholes.

Amazing - I could have stayed there all day! What a noise as the waves roared through the rocks and blasted up through the holes sending fine mist floating through the air. A number of photos had to be taken here and you might notice we begin to look more and more like drowned rats!! We turned down the kind offer to purchase a coconut for $5 that the Samoan guide would put down one of the holes so we could see it blasted up into the air!

We were circumnavigating the island in a clock wise direction and wanted to make it as far as Manase for our night's accommodation so kept on trucking around the south coast past Lovers Leap which is not, as you would at first think, the place where lovers leap off the cliffs to their death together but more about an old blind woman and her daughter who had to leave the village. The old woman loved her daugher so much she allowed her to climb on her back before they jumped. When they both hit the water the old woman turned into a Turtle and the daughter into a Shark who can now often be seen swimming in the bay.

Next stop on our whirlwind tour of Savaii was Cape Mulinuu where you can see tomorrow. The international date line is just out to sea. It had started raining quite hard by this point though so we did not get out of the car but continued around the peninsula. The locals are quite keen here to get money out of you for any reason so when we pulled up on the side of the road to dig out the lunch someone came paddling through the rain to ask if we wanted to pay $10 to park our car there - of course the answer was "no" and we moved on!!

The rain eased up a bit so we stopped to have a look at the ruins of Cyclone Ofa, from 1990, where the village of Falealupo was completely destroyed. There were a couple of churches on opposite sides of the road along with a tomb complete with skulls and bones for all to see. That was pretty spooky actually so we left there and carried on our journey.

Next stop was at the canopy walkway. There had been some debate as to whether this was open but they were there taking our money so we assumed it was! After walking through some lovely Samoan bush we got to the base of the walkway and climbed up the stairs to the 24 metre long swing bridge 9 metres above the ground. The bridge finishes with a 20 metre high stairway up into an ancient banyan tree. Now remember I said that it had been raining? Well Mum promptly took a step out onto the bridge and the (not particularly health and safety compliant) wooden boards and slipped straight over landing on her backside. I tell you it was the dress she was wearing as that had also been the one that caused the fractured wrist! After some careful manouvreing to get back up on 2 feet while pulling herself up with said fractured wrist we all decided we had better go carefully and slowly! No more pooh hooing of the Australians who had done just this ahead of us! We made it across in 1 piece and climbed up into the banyan tree for a great view down over the canopy. Well worth the visit and the $10 each.

After this, we had been on the road most of the day and had visited some great sights so we made a beeline for our accommodation at Janes Beach Fales in Manase. Got to say we were not overly impressed with the state, or again non health and safety compliant, fales, the dinner that was served up or the flood that was otherwise known as the womens bathrooms but when the sun shone brightly the next day we soon got over these things and enjoyed a nice relaxing day swimming and reading on our balcony.

Savaii here we come!

So after our dramas at Samoana we had 1 night back in Apia to recharge batteries and get ready for our adventures in Savaii. We had a gorgeous meal this night at Giodano's one of the best italian restaurants in Apia. Mum and Adam had pizzas and Dad and I had spaghetti bolognaise or carbonara. Delicious. It was then home for an early night as we had to be up for the ferry at 6.00am....

4.30am and my eyes don't really want to open but luckily we had done all the packing and car loading the night before so just had to fall into the car and let Adam drive us to the Ferry. We dutifully went through the quarantine wheel wash, which consists of squirting the car wheels with a garden hose in a half arsed fashion! This is meant to eradicate the car of any African Giant Snails which apparently are not on Savaii yet - though we have heard otherwise. We joined the queue of cars and Adam had to do some swift manouvreing of the car backwards onto the barge. We were pretty packed in. Mum and I were not quick enough to grab a seat as the Samoan's like to lie down and promptly go to sleep so we all spent the 1 1/4 hour journey standing up at the rail. This is the best place anyway as these Ferry's have quite a sway to them! It was pitch black when we set off but we got a great view of the sunrise as we went along.

When we reached Salelologa in Savaii be disembarked and Adam took us to the Jet Over Hotel, where he had been for work, for a nice breakfast. We then drove up and down the streets to find the public library and drop something off, see the "Christmas Lights" or the new and only set of traffic lights on Savaii (which weren't working!) and go to the new markets for a look. The markets were great but the toilets have to be the worst I have seen in Samoa! Not quite sure what the lady attendant does all day apart from sit on the seat and hand out toilet paper! She also escourted me to a cubicle which I refused to go in as the toilet was so dirty. We were pleased to get out of there!

Friday, May 8, 2009

Samoana Drama

So continuing our trip around Upolu we next moved on to Samoana Resort where Adam and I had been once before. We got checked into our 2 story "fale" and appreciated the comfort after our basic stay in Maninoa. There was plenty of time for sitting in the "Air Chair" or hammock asleep or reading or having a drink or 2 in the bar before dinner.

One eventful night while Dad, Adam and I sat in the bar doing what you are meant to do when on holiday Mum decided to go out for a walk. She was gone quite a while and I was just starting to wonder where she had got to when she turned back up holding her arm. She had had an encounter with some very slippery rocks (it always pays to be wary of the green slimy ones) and had slipped over landing on her arm. The owner of Samoana was very helpful and brought us some ice which helped to make it feel better. The arm was pretty sore after this for most of the rest of the holiday actually and you will see why in the photos. Upon arriving back home in NZ (Mum was not going to go anywhere near a Samoan hospital after the stories she heard from our friends one night at dinner) the arm was found to be fractured so it's been in a purple cast for the last 4 weeks. Whoops. After this it was decided no one was going off on their own exploring. Mum however battled on like a trojan and didn't let it ruin her holiday.

The next morning was drama part 2 when we all decided to go paddling the kayaks before breakfast. As Mum could not really paddle with her arm we loaded her into a double kayak and launched her out to sea with Adam. Dad and I had to take a single kayak each. The waves were pretty rough pounding into the beach which did not make the launching very easy. Dad managed to get tipped out in the process. Before long though we were paddling happily around the coast towards Virgin Cove resort. We came to the lagoon which was like glass and was the calm before the storm. After paddling around the mangrove area and surveying the colourful fish from above we decided it was time to paddle back for breakfast.

On the way, in my wisdom or not, I decided to have a go at riding the waves on my kayak. After one successful attempt I should have quit while I was ahead however I had another go and managed to get dunked!! Ankles hit the coral but luckily the boat stayed with me. It took a bit of paddling to catch back up with Adam and Mum who had started to head for home.

Next drama to happen was that Dad got cramp. We tried our hardest to hitch him up to one of our kayaks so that we could help him paddle home but after that was unsuccessful he decided he would have to dig it in and paddle himself back. By this time Adam and I had swapped kayaks and I was now paddling Mum. We were going along great guns until a bit of swell came along and I got that ah oh feeling. Sea sickness!! I knew it wasn't going to go away so made a beeline for the beach with Adam in tow asking me what was wrong!! I was not too keen to get back in that boat I can tell you. So .... Adam paddled Mum back in the double and I stayed washed up on a desert island stranded waiting for him to come back for me.

Drama number 5 was that a freak wave caught Adam and Mums kayak on the way home. Now we all know Mum is not that happy about being out on the water at the best of times so here was the son-in-law who managed to tip her out in the deep waters and leave her to get herself back up into the boat with a fractured arm!! This story will last the distance!!

I waited and waited on my desert island and eventually was not too happy to see Adam paddling back towards me. Not happy as I had hoped he would be on foot!! Him paddling meant that I had to paddle too to get the other Kayak home. Luckily by now my tummy had settled down a bit so in we launched for the 10 minute journey. I'm pleased to say that we eventually all made it back safely.

Not without 1 more drama though! Dad on his arrival back at the beach managed to get tipped out of the kayak again and majorly graze his leg on the rocks. Pretty painful. Dr Jowitt has never had to get the First Aid Kit out so much before. Luckily the Betadine did the trick for infection.

And last but not least we all missed breakfast this morning as our sedate paddling trip took so long so we were pretty hungry by lunch time and even more hungry for dinner.

One last thing to say about Samoana was we had ordered a chocolate and coconut cake to celebrate Dad's birthday (albeit a bit early). In Samoa things are not done in halves so we managed to provide dessert for all of the guests that night and even have some left over for the ladies in the kitchen.

What a couple of days!!

Saturday, May 2, 2009

Holiday Part 2

After seeing the sights of Apia it was time to head for the beach. Our first destination was Lalomanu Beach , at the eastern end of Upolu, where we stayed at Taufua Beach Fales. On the way over we stopped at the Falefa waterfall and shared some cookies with a local villager who had been out picking coconuts and papaya.

At Taufua we checked into our fales, we took a normal open fale (no walls, no bathroom) but decided to ease Mum and Dad into things gently and booked them into an enclosed fale - a fale with walls, toilet and shower.

Once we got settled in it was time for a swim. The water was lovely and warm (as it always is) and there were plenty of fish around. Dad was able to christen his mask and snorkel. Mum joined us for a swim, but we couldn't convince her to give snorkelling a try!

After our swim there was time for a walk along the beach, accompanied by 2 friendly dogs, before happy hour. We managed to get our tropical cocktails before dinner. As usual the dinner at Taufua was a feast with plenty of food to go around.

The next day was similar - walking on the beach, reading the latest gossip mags from NZ, swimming, drinking Vailima/cocktails/Jack and eating good food. What a tough life!

We also had some heavy rain overnight and in the morning, but we were pleased to see it clear up by lunchtime. Actually, we had been a bit worried, in the week before Mum and Dad arrive we had caught the tail end of a cyclone that had passed through Tonga. It didn't cause us much bother, just plenty of rain all week - just what people want on their tropical island holiday! It also created heaps of potholes on all the roads, especially the busy roads around Apia, so we spent most of the holiday weaving all over the road trying to avoid hit the biggest of them. We were glad that this rain was last of the heavy rain from the cyclone.

After relaxing at Lalomanu for a couple days we carried on around the south coast and visited To Sua Ocean Trench. This is the spot where there is a large hole in the ground that is connected to the ocean. After looking around the gardens and enjoying the view of the ocean we climbed down the ladder (how many steps was it?) and got into the pool. it was the second time that we had visited this place, but it was still an eerie feeling to be swimming around in a big hole so far below the surrounding ground and to feel the surge of the waves as they pound in against the shore.

Next stop was the Togitogiga waterfall where we enjoyed a freshwater dip. This was much better than when we visited the same falls with Latika and Hedley - on that occasion there hadn't been any rain for a while and the river had dried up!

That night we stayed at Maninoa Beach Fales. This is a basic setup aimed at surfers and is tucked in between 2 of Samoa's most upmarket resorts. We found out that Coconuts Resort was having their Fiafia Night that night, so we decided to head there for dinner and catch their show. We had a great dinner that included some Samoa favourites like palusmai, taro, breadfruit etc. We then were able to watch their show that included a kava ceremony (yes, Mum and Dad did try the kava) some fire knife dancing and some traditional dancing. The next morning we decided to have a look at the other resort, Sinalei, and had a very nice breakfast there.

Anyway, that will have to do for now. We will be back with the next installment soon.

Thursday, April 30, 2009

Mum and Dad's Holiday Highlights

Here are a few of the things Mum and Dad remembered from their holiday:-

Leis on arrival at airport
Meeting netball friends and seeing where netball is played in Samoa
Soap factory
Giving man at waterfall biscuits
Dining room at Taufua Fales
Sua Trench ladder and swim
Fia Fia concert and meal
Relaxing in hammock at Resort
Kayaking despite injuries (and dumping)
Dawn sky on early morning sailing
Blowholes
Turtle swim and Lava flow
Service when we showed cash at Resort
And of course the supply of delicious cookies which kept us going along with lots of drink (water and Jack)

Yes I even managed to get Mum drinking the Jack while on holiday!! More details on all these things to follow....

Summer Holiday ....

I know, I know we have been back from holiday for nearly 2 weeks and as yet have not written 1 word on this blog to tell you about the WONDERFUL and FANTASTIC time we had showing Mum and Dad around Samoa!!

You will notice that I have managed to finish uploading a whole lot of new photos for you though not to mention 3 videos of us swimming with the turtles and visiting the blow holes. Swimming with the turtles was the most MAGNIFICENT thing I have ever done and the photos do it justice so I hope you enjoy.

So we greeted Mum and Dad at Faleolo airport on the 7th April with 2 freshly made flower leis and a hearty "Talofa lava and welcome to Samoa"!!!! They were doing OK having had a day of travelling. Unfortunately at 7.30pm at night they could not see much of the coastline as we drove to Apia but that joy was saved for another day. After raiding the frangipani trees at the airport for flowers (I know how much Mum likes frangipani) we arrived home and cooked a simple BBQ dinner and unpacked the goodies from the suitcases!! Lots of chocolate to fill up the fridge with and Birthday presents - yay!

The next day we spent around Apia walking on the sea wall, visiting the craft markets for souviners, going for a tour of the Robert Louis Stevenson house, visiting the Mailelani soap factory for a tour and explanation of how they make the soap with coconut oil and Samoan fragrances and then finishing a day with a cocktail in the Aggies bar before seeing friends for dinner.

Tuesday, April 21, 2009

It's My Birthday!

It's my Birthday today. Thanks to everyone for the wishes via card, email and text. Also thanks for the presents!! Adam took me for lunch today. I ordered the Snapper. I got Tuna that was underdone. Oh well that is Birthday's for you in Samoa!!! Off to netball now. It's been a pretty normal day really .........

Will be writing soon and uploading photos of our week and 1/2 adventures around Upolu and Savaii with my parents. We had a great time so watch this space.